Samoa is a wonderful place and one of our favourites on our round the world trip. There is very little independent information on (Western) Samoa on the internet so this destinations guide should offer useful advice and tips for any travellers considering Samoa as one of their stops on their round the world trips.


We arrived in Samoa with no accommodation booked for any part of our stay. There is a cashpoint in the airport so if you haven't got any Samoan Tala with you (like we didn't) you can get it here (recommended). Do a bit of research on accommodation online but you tend to save money by booking direct with the hotels/fales. You can get a shuttle bus on arrival which will take you to your accommodation in Apia. This cost 10 Tala per person (£2, US$3.50). Public transport is done the Samoan way and this generally means that all buses go to and from Apia only - there are no circular island buses for instance. They are, however, very colourful both in colour and nature and you get a good dose of Samoan pop music and quite possibly a Samoan on your lap! Taxis to anywhere from one part of Apia to another cost 3 Tala. Certain companies offer transport packages around the islands. However, please be wary of Green Turtle - we had many problems with this company as did other travellers we met. The best way to get around on both islands is to meet other travellers and share taxis or if you meet people with cars they will often transport you on. To get between the two main islands there are two options. You can fly. We didn't do this but apparently you get excellent scenic views over the country during a very quick flight. We opted for the ferry which was inexpensive. When leaving Samoa at the end of your trip keep 40 tala or so per person for Departure Tax (rate during 2005).

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For budget travellers or those travelling on a shoestring, Samoa can offer real bargain accommodation. In Apia we stayed at two hotels/fales accommodation. We would reccommend both. The first placed we stayed on arrival was The Outrigger Hotel where we got a fale (wooden hut) with two mattresses by the pool for 45 Tala per person including breakfast (£9.50, US$16). This hotel/fale resort is about 15 - 20 minutes walk from downtown Apia. The hotel actually moved locations so the photos on their homepage are not 100% accurate but you get the idea. For our last night in Apia we stayed at the Princess Tui Inn. Here we paid 136 Tala (£28, US$50) for a twin room with shared bathroom. This was a nice little hotel, again about 15 mins walk from downtown Apia via the Harbour. If, however, you are flush with money (we weren't!) most people stay at one of the Aggie Grey hotels.

Outside of Apia, the real way to save money and experience true Samoa is to stay in fale beach-front accommodation. This is basic accommodation for sure but a wonderful thing to experience. Effectively what you get is a beach hut constructed of wood, 2 or 3 meals thrown in by the family host, and a shared toilet/shower block (cold water). Don't let that put you off. It is wonderful. You meet lots of travellers and you meet Samoan families who are amongst the most hospitable people we found the world over. Do not book online with companies such as Green Turtle but book yourself on arrival. Online fales cost 90 Tala (£19, US$33), but booking independently you will pay between 50 and 80 Tala (£10.50-16.50, US$18-29) per person per night including 2 or 3 meals where you eat communally with other guests. We loved the following fales:

Taufua Beach Fales at Lalomanu Beach on Upolu (phone: 25 389) - 55 Tala per person inc food (highly reccommended)
Fao Fao Beach Fales on Upolu (phone: 41 067) - 70 Tala per person inc food
Virgin Cove Fales on Upolu (phone: 75 000) - 70 Tala pp inc excellent food (Click for website)
Jane's Beach Fales on Savai'i (phone: 54 066) - 50 Tala pp inc food (highly reccommended) (Click for website)

Video 3 on my video page shows Jane's Beach Fales

Vaisala Hotel on Savai'i (phone: 58 016) - 126 Tala for 4 bed room with shower
Satuiatua Beach Fales on Savai'i (phone: 56 026) - 65 Tala pp inc breakfast
MUST AVOID - Manono (Vaotu’ua) Island Fales - our only bad experience on Samoa - very rude hosts


Samoa in the South Pacific makes for a great place to relax on a round the world trip or for a relaxing holiday in general. The focus is on relaxation. Samoa is not a tourist hotspot and, as a result, it is unique in offering visitors a relaxing, informal and friendly stay. You don't get tourist resorts lining the beaches like other tropical destinations. All beach accommodation is basic, but perfectly adequate, fales (beach hut) accommodation. The following are our must sees in Samoa.


Samoa is a tropical island. Much of the produce used here is grown locally and served to you as part of your meals at fales accommodations. These fales line the most stunning beaches you could hope for. White, clean and soft sand complemented by reef-fringed blue waters make Samoa a great place to visit for a beach holiday or as a relaxing stop on a round the world trip. Our favourite must see beaches are Lalomanu Beach on Upolu and Manase Beach on Savai'i. Stay in the above-mentioned accommodation at these beaches. Pack your snorkelling equipment as you get to see lots of fish in the reef. If you are into your snorkelling the best beach without a doubt is Lalomanu. You can not hire snorkelling equipment on the whole at the fales so do take your own. Although these two beaches were our favourites all beaches are nice, uncrowded and beautiful. See our Samoa photos by clicking here.


Another must see are the traditional dancing shows called fia fias. If you visit Samoa do not leave without having been to a fia fia night as it a key part of Samoan culture. We saw several of these shows during our stay in Samoa. They feature as part of the entertainment offered by hotels and fales accommodation resorts alike. The fia fias at fales resorts are, on the whole, performed by village families. The performers wear traditional, colouful Samoan costumes and dance and sing to traditional Samoan music. Often, fire dances form part of the event - sit well back! There are lots of instruments used and lots of hand clapping. If you are staying at the resort the event is included free but expect to pay if you are visiting just for the fia fia.

Video 1 on my video page shows a traditional Samoan fia fia


Sunday in Samoa is dedicated fully to God. Samoa is a very Christian country and in every village across the islands, Samoans dress up in their Sunday Best to attend mass before feasting with their families for pretty much the rest of the day! (Cooking starts early in the morning - look out for Samoa's Sunday smoke in the sky). Look for the white blouses, dresses, skirts, jackets, the works. Ask any traveller to Samoa who has attended mass and they will tell you it is a highlight of their stay in Samoa. If you attend the mass listen to the Samoans sing - they really give it some. They're very vocal and its great to be a part of it. You're made to feel very welcome. If you have something white to wear do, but if you don't it's not a problem.


If you are staying at Manase on the island of Savai'i we would highly reccommend swimming with turtles about five minutes out of the village. Ask for transport from someone at your fale accommodation. We paid just 10 Tala for this taxi service there and back. Swimming with turtles cost only 5 Tala (£1, US$1.80) per person and it was brilliant. Money well spent and a great opportunity for some fun photos! You can also feed the turtles fruit on request.

Situated in Falealupo Rain Forest Reserve on Savai'i is the Canopy Walkway. Entrance is 20 Tala (£4, US$7) and is worth the money. Situated on the western end of Samoa, the Canopy Walkway is the main feature. Between a Garuga Floribunda tree and a large bayan tree, a walkway has been contructed using joined up ladders (literaly) and this makes for a very interesting swing bridge! From here you get great views over the forested area. Fees go into conserving the rainforest, towards schooling for village children and as income for the village. The exo-tourism project was financed by the USA - Click for details.


The Alofaaga Blowholes are a definite must see attraction on the island of Savai'i, near the village of Taga. 6 Tala (£1.25, US$2.20) entrance fee. Here, the eaves crash through underground tunnels before spurting out water high into the sky from openings in the ground. If you get the chance try throwing coconut shells into the holes or get a guide to just before the burst of water and see how far they go. It's pretty good fun. These are one of the most impressive natural features in Samoa so shouldn't be missed. You can also do coastal walks past this area. Caution: Be careful near the blowholes as we know of one story of a very lucky tourist who fell in but luckily got rescued - she was taking photos into the blowhole - not a clever thing to do!

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